Anatomy of a suit
Smooth and flat
against the neck.
At the collar and sleeve, stress points strategic to the fit. Stitches will be visible beneath the collar at the back of the neck, and around the inside arm hole. The more stitches per inch, the better quality the tailoring.
It should always line up without interuption across pockets and seams.
Soft and pliant to the touch.
In silky Bemberg, preferably full length.
A lack of lapel lining allows the wearer to fasten a three or four button jacket where ever he finds most flattering. Should lie perfectly flat without buckling.
A soft suit has only the lightest of padding in the shoulder to create an easy sloping line, a characteristic that allows it to be worn without its matching trousers (as long as you wear it with some sort of trousers).
Set without puckering to hang slightly forward, tapering gently from the shoulder to the hem; neither too tight nor too full. Even when the jacket is without lining, sleeves still need to be lined with a quality silk or rayon for ease of movement.
Continental, or western, pockets are cut nearly parallel to the waistband. More common (and less casual) on-seam pockets run along the outer seams with a vertical or diagonal cut.
Though generally informal, flat-fronted trousers also happen to be favored for suits by traditional men's shop tailors.
Jeans or fashion-forward pants may be more narrow at the ankles than suit pants.
Casual pants often have one besom pocket, usually with a button-flap closure.
Cuffs are usually 1 1/2"
wide – no less
On casual trousers they are softer, less constructed, and can either be non-rol with expandable sidetabs or have hook enclosures.
A piece of fabric in the inside part of the waistband. Holds the shirt in place.
Normally, trousers with expandable waists do not have belt loops.
Pleats can be "reverse" (folded inside) or "forward" (folded outside). Reverse pleats create a slender appearance – unless the pants are too tight, in which case the bulging pleats can actually make you look heavier.
Cuffed pants should break slightly on the shoe.