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373 Overtoom
Amsterdam-West, NH, 1054 JN

+31 20 681 5792

De Oost Bespoke Tailoring is an Amsterdam based tailoring house with a contemporary sense of style & personal attention. We design and tailor suits, shirts, jackets, trousers, skirts and coats for ladies & gentlemen. 

 

 

Anatomy of a suit

COLLAR
Smooth and flat
against the neck.

HAND-STITCHING
At the collar and sleeve, stress points strategic to the fit. Stitches will be visible beneath the collar at the back of the neck, and around the inside arm hole. The more stitches per inch, the better quality the tailoring.

PATTERN
It should always line up without interuption across pockets and seams.

POCKETS
Cotton lining.

FABRIC
Soft and pliant to the touch.

LINING
In silky Bemberg, preferably full length.

 

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LAPELS
A lack of lapel lining allows the wearer to fasten a three or four button jacket where ever he finds most flattering. Should lie perfectly flat without buckling.

SHOULDER
A soft suit has only the lightest of padding in the shoulder to create an easy sloping line, a characteristic that allows it to be worn without its matching trousers (as long as you wear it with some sort of trousers).

SLEEVE
Set without puckering to hang slightly forward, tapering gently from the shoulder to the hem; neither too tight nor too full. Even when the jacket is without lining, sleeves still need to be lined with a quality silk or rayon for ease of movement.

 

SIDE POCKETS
Continental, or western, pockets are cut nearly parallel to the waistband. More common (and less casual) on-seam pockets run along the outer seams with a vertical or diagonal cut.

FLAT FRONT
Though generally informal, flat-fronted trousers also happen to be favored for suits by traditional men's shop tailors.

WIDTH
Jeans or fashion-forward pants may be more narrow at the ankles than suit pants.

BACK POCKET
Casual pants often have one besom pocket, usually with a button-flap closure.

CUFFS
Cuffs are usually 1 1/2" 
wide – no less

 

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WAISTBAND
On casual trousers they are softer, less constructed, and can either be non-rol with expandable sidetabs or have hook enclosures.

GRIP
A piece of fabric in the inside part of the waistband. Holds the shirt in place.

BELT LOOPS
Normally, trousers with expandable waists do not have belt loops.

PLEATS
Pleats can be "reverse" (folded inside) or "forward" (folded outside). Reverse pleats create a slender appearance – unless the pants are too tight, in which case the bulging pleats can actually make you look heavier.

BREAK
Cuffed pants should break slightly on the shoe.