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373 Overtoom
Amsterdam-West, NH, 1054 JN

+31 20 681 5792

De Oost Bespoke Tailoring is an Amsterdam based tailoring house with a contemporary sense of style & personal attention. We design and tailor suits, shirts, jackets, trousers, skirts and coats for ladies & gentlemen. 

 

 

Blog - Tips - Tricks De Oost Bespoke Tailoring - Maatpakken heren dames

Blog De Oost Bespoke Tailoring Bespoke Suit shirts dress style tricks inspiration for men women. Maatpakken Kostuums Kleermaker Engels Italiaans Handgemaakt Heren Dames 

A GUIDE TO DRESS SHIRTS: POCKETS, PLACKET, THE BACK AND THE HEM

Michel Pet

After discussing the collar and the cuffs of a dress shirt, in this article of our guide to dress shirts we will feature some further details to choose from when selecting your perfect dress shirt.

Pockets

Some men like to have a shirt pocket; others don’t. A dress shirt without pockets is the most formal choice. A gentleman would wear a jacket and therefore he would never use his shirt pocket. On the other hand, someone engaged in physical labor used the pocket to store things while working. Nowadays no one would put items in a pocket, but there are some people who, as a stylistic choice, would like to add a pocket to a dress shirt. Dandies would use it to combine a pocket square with their dress shirt. A chest pocket on both sides is very casual and usually reserved for very informal shirts.

 Placket

The placket is one of the main elements of the shirt’s front, because it automatically draws attention to itself due its central position. The traditional placket, also known as the ‘American placket’ is the most common style. It adds symmetry to a dress shirt, and it is basically, a separate piece of fabric attached to the shirt front. It can either by be folded or stitched, and it is a popular option for everyday business shirts. The French placket (no front placket) is a very simplistic style that is achieved by folding the fabric over itself inwards. This technique results in a clean shirt front without any stitching. The French placket works well on both business and casual shirts. The fly front placket,or covered placket, features an extra flap of fabric which conceals the buttons thus providing a very dressed-up look.      

The back

When it comes to the back of a dress shirt you have the option to choose pleats and/or darts. Shoulder or center back pleats help to guarantee a large range of movement in your arms, but some men also like them for the looks. Back darts, however, depending on their width, can produce a pronounced cinched effect on the waist that makes it slimmer and more contemporary. Darts are popular for removing excess fabric from the lower back of a shirt. Many guys will have lower backs that curve inward, so removing fabric from this portion of the shirt can help the shirt follow the lines of their body more closely.

The hem

A classic dress shirt is worn tucked in. Therefore the tail and front hems are longer than the sides, so it doesn’t come untucked during the day. If you are looking for a casual shirt that you can wear untucked on a more relaxed occasion, straight hems are the way to go.

Epilogue

As with most details on the shirt, it all comes down to personal taste. We can give you advice on every little aspect of the dress shirt, but in the end you decide what fits your own individual style best.

Pictures of plackets and pleats: www.propercloth.com

Classic styles: the Norfolk jacket

Michel Pet

One of the most characteristic sportscoats ever invented is the Norfolk Jacket. In this article we feature the history and style of this classical British garment.

History of the Norfolk jacket

It is uncertain what the origin of the Norfolk Jacket is. One theory claims that it was originally invented in the 1860’s as a hunting jacket by the 15th Duke of Norfolk. The other theory claims that the origin comes from the Coke of Norfolk and his estate, where noble gentlemen came for hunting.  However, there is no real evidence that supports either theory. In any case, its roots are in Norfolk, England and it was popularized by the Prince of Wales. From the 1860’s the Norfolk jacket was used for outdoor and sporting pursuits, like hunting, cycling and golf or as casual day wear by gentlemen of leisure when vacationing in the country. From the end of the 19th century young men started wearing the Norfolk jacket in town.

Style of the Norfolk jacket

The Norfolk jacket is a single breasted jacket with three or four buttons, large patch pockets and box pleats on the front and back. The jacket also has a full- or a half belt made from matching fabric, notch lapels and a single vent. The Norfolk jacket is usually made from tweed or woolen fabrics.

Epilogue

The Norfolk jacket is rarely seen anymore and if so, mostly by vintage lovers or modern day dandies. As a bespoke tailor we pride ourselves that we are able to tailor this classical jacket, as can be seen from the modern Norfolk jacket which we made for one of our customers from a cashmere corduroy in the beautiful color Merlot (see pictures above).

Conor McGregor: the fuck you suit

Michel Pet

All fans of boxing or mixed martial arts know him: Conor McGregor, the MMA badass and world champion in two different weight categories. McGregor challenged the retired and undefeated world boxing champion Floyd Mayweather for a boxing match and Mayweather accepted the challenge. The two fighters have recently started their world tour to promote their fight. Last week Conor McGregor showed up at a press conference for the upcoming fight on August 26, wearing a supremely tailored bespoke suit with a pinstripe. But on closer inspection, it wasn't just a pinstripe: it was the words "Fuck You" written over and over.

(c) Getty images

(c) Getty images

(c) Getty images

(c) Getty images

People immediately asked us whether this suit could be tailored by us. We are a bespoke tailor and ofcourse we are able to make you this suit or any other suit where the pin stripe is replaced by words. So if you would like to personalise your suit for a wedding or any other special event where you would like to let your suit do the talking for you, we would happily be of assistance to you.  

Een geschiedenis van Corduroy en Moleskin

Jean-Paul Samson

Over de herkomst van corduroy (ribfluweel) en moleskin (Engels leer) is weinig bekend. Samen met andere stoffen, zoals velveteen (katoenfluweel), staan zij bekend onder de noemer ‘flanel’. De productie van deze stoffen vond plaats in de districten East Lancashire en West Yorkshire in Engeland. In de Calder vallei in West Yorkshire, waar Brisbane Moss is gevestigd, bevonden zich vele flanel weverijen vanaf de eerste helft van de 19e eeuw. Helaas is het merendeel van deze bedrijvigheid in de laatste paar decennia verdwenen. Vandaag de dag is Brisbane Moss de grootste overgebleven weverij van corduroys en moleskins in Groot-Brittanië.

 Cinnamon 8 Wale Corduroy, een ideale keuze voor een broek in de koudere maanden vanwege de stevige look en kleur die aansluit bij het veranderende bladerdek.

 Cinnamon 8 Wale Corduroy, een ideale keuze voor een broek in de koudere maanden vanwege de stevige look en kleur die aansluit bij het veranderende bladerdek.

De term ‘flanel’ is erg breed. In het begin van de 19e eeuw omvatte het stoffen die gewoven werden met een linnen schering en een katoenen inslag. Later veranderde dit in stoffen die relatief veel inslagen hadden in vergelijking met scheringen, dat een zachte, sterke en dikke stof ten gevolge had, die meestal gemaakt werd van 100% katoen. Soms werd deze zachte stof geproduceerd met ribbels over de lengte, die door speciale machines konden worden vervaardigd; de typerende eigenschap van corduroy zoals we dat tegenwoordig kennen. Door te variëren in het aantal ribbels per inch, het gewicht, of andere karakteristieken van de stof, ontstonden de verschillende variaties van corduroy, zoals Genoa, Constitutional Cord, Thicksett, Twill Back, Jean Back, Calico Back en Needlecord. Deze namen waren veelal beschrijvend. Bijvoorbeeld, ‘Calico Back’ corduroy had een egale achterkant – calico is een algemene term voor egale stoffen.

Moleskins waren over het algemeen stoffen zonder prominente ribbels en met een zachter uiterlijk. Net zoals met coduroy het geval was, waren er ook vele verschillende variaties moleskins, zoals Imperial, Swansdown, Patent en O’Neil. Een dergelijke stof kon in vele verschillende kleuren en tinten afgewerkt worden, afhankelijk van het toekomstige gebruik van de stof. Sommige moleskins werden gemaakt met extreem sterke scheringgaren en een hoge dichtheid van inslagen. In sommige gevallen had een moleskin meer dan 400 draden per inch, waarvoor een speciaal weefgetouw nodig was. Helaas bestaan tengewoordig nog maar enkele van zulke weefgetouwen.

Navy Moleskin een ideale stof wanneer je stevigheid / duurzaamheid relevant acht en comfort niet achterwegen mag blijven. Dus ideaal voor diegene die fietst of een beroep heeft waarbij er veel beweging is.

Navy Moleskin een ideale stof wanneer je stevigheid / duurzaamheid relevant acht en comfort niet achterwegen mag blijven. Dus ideaal voor diegene die fietst of een beroep heeft waarbij er veel beweging is.

Al de bovengenoemde stoffen worden gewoven met katoenen draden van hoge kwalitateit. Vandaag de dag worden moleskins veelal gebruikt voor kleding. De zwaardere varianten, van wel 400 gram per vierkante meter, worden gebruikt voor broeken, vesten en dergelijken. Lichtere varianten worden gebruik voor shirts, rokken en, in combinatie met andere stoffen, verschillende typen jasjes. Ook worden moleskin en corduroy vaak gebruikt voor decoratieve effecten op kragen, boorden en dergelijken.

In sommige gevallen werd het oppervlakte van de stof bewerkt om het een suède-achtige uitstraling te geven. De mythe is dat de gelijkenis hiervan met de vacht van een mol tot de benaming moleskin heeft geleid. Andere afwerkingen en kleuren zijn ook mogelijk. Siliconen, water afstotend en zachte afwerkingen kunnen worden toegepast, maar wanneer de stof gemaakt is van draden met hoge kwaliteit gaat dit vaak ten koste van natuurlijke kwaliteit van de stof.

How to choose a (bespoke) business suit or jacket?

Jean-Paul Samson

A guide on how to choose a business suit.

"You never get a second chance to make a first impression". It's an old adage because it is undeniably true. It is therefore imperative that to succeed in business it makes sense to wear great looking business suits.

Ulysses S. Grant & Li Hung Chang 1874

Ulysses S. Grant & Li Hung Chang 1874

Below are our 4 top tips to help you choose the perfect business suit:

Choosing the perfect business suit – tip 1
The style of the Cloth.

The cloth dictates more than anything else the overall 'look' of  a business suit, and it very much depends on your style whether you opt for solid colors, pin-stripes, checks, herringbones or other patterns. But always take care to consider your environment. Just because you are a very outgoing person that doesn't necessarily mean that a loud, audacious suit is going to reflect well in the business world. Similarly, there are many industries (such as advertising and the media) where a conservative suit will make you look stuffy and out of touch. At De Oost Bespoke Tailoring we take the time to talk to our clients about the role the business suit has to play in their working life, so that the cloth compliments that role completely.

Choosing the perfect business suit – tip 2
The Practicality of the cloth.

In general business suits need to be the 'toughest' suit in your wardrobe. City life, travel and commuting is very hard on suits - whether it's running for a cab or sitting on a park bench they are susceptible to considerable wear and tear. The general rule of thumb is that the heavier the cloth the more hardwearing it is (although we offer exceptions if you prefer). Also, the medium to heavy cloths will hold their shape throughout the day, so you're looking as crisp in the evening as you did first thing.

Choosing the perfect business suit – tip 3
The cut / style options.

Some cuts and style options are too casual for a business suit, and it is important to know that your choices are appropriate. We recommend 2 or 3 button jackets, depending on your shape (and taste), and style options can range from the ultra modern (such as contrast stitching on the boutonniere) to the very traditional (such as pleated trousers and side adjusters). The wrong combinations of options can make the suit look strange – so be careful!

Choosing the perfect business suit – tip 4
The fit.

We know from experience that when a customer puts on a perfectly fitted suit it can change everything. Their whole demeanor can improve - they become more confident and feel more powerful and respected. To wear bespoke is to join the ranks of the most successful business people in history and while it would be absurd to attribute their prowess to their pin-stripes, there is no doubt that if you look the part you feel the part. The fit of a business suit is absolutely vital. At De Oost Bespoke Tailoring we take up to 30 measurements to ensure accuracy, and we offer a fit guarantee – we won't let you take your suit away until you are entirely happy with it. 

See our Business Suits and Cloth