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373 Overtoom
Amsterdam-West, NH, 1054 JN

+31 20 681 5792

De Oost Bespoke Tailoring is an Amsterdam based tailoring house with a contemporary sense of style & personal attention. We design and tailor suits, shirts, jackets, trousers, skirts and coats for ladies & gentlemen. 

 

 

Blog - Tips - Tricks De Oost Bespoke Tailoring - Maatpakken heren dames

Blog De Oost Bespoke Tailoring Bespoke Suit shirts dress style tricks inspiration for men women. Maatpakken Kostuums Kleermaker Engels Italiaans Handgemaakt Heren Dames 

Shirts and Collars: The Button-Down Collar

Jean-Paul Samson

Initially popularized by American sportsmen and eastern university men during the 1920s and 1930s, the oxford button-down is America’s sole contribution to the lexicon of permanent dress shirt fashion. Since World War II, European enthusiasts have descended upon the doorstep of its shrine, 346 Madison Avenue, to load up on this unique American classic. Until recently, no elegant male could unfurl his stripes without at least one Brooks Brothers pink oxford gracing his closet.

Brooks Brothers button-down collar advertisement

Brooks Brothers button-down collar advertisement

With designer menswear helping to blur the distinction between disposable and permanent fashion. Brooks Brothers has further muddied the water by abdicating its role as the protectorate of America’s traditional fashion. As goes Brooks, so goes the button-down. The Ivy League look was the last patrician-inspired men’s fashion to establish itself before the roots of America’s upper-class taste were displaced in the upheaval of the 1960s peacock Revolution. Were it not for the vision and genius of Ralph Lauren. America’s very own natural-shoulder style would have followed his alma mater. Brooks Brothers, into sartorial eclipse.

Blue Houndstooth Dress Shirt With Button Down Collar And Double Buttoned Bevelled Cuffs. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Traditionally clad Continentals have always appreciated the American original’s innate classiness. Each year, a small coterie of French and Italian merchants offers up its own take on the Ivy League look, inspired by Old World images of American society at play in Newport or Palm Beach.

When hosting a necktie, the button-down collar projects about the same level of dressiness as the navy blazer or Weejun-style loafer, two of its more frequent coconspirators. Like the blue blazer, the oxford button-down can be dressed up or down, although it tends to consort more comfortably with like-textured fabrics such as flannel or tweed. In the button-down’s salad days, all style was forfeited, should its points lack sufficient length to roll over and play casual.

Blue Denim Off Duty Dress Shirt With Button Down Collar And Double Button Bevelled Cuffs. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Variaties in Bespoke Pakken: Single-Breasted of Double-Breasted, Knopen en Revers

Jean-Paul Samson

Er zijn ontelbare mogelijkheden wanneer u door De Oost een pak laat vervaardigen. Uiteraard helpen wij u tijdens uw afspraak om ervoor te zorgen dat u de juiste keuzes bewust maakt. Dit heeft een precies goed zittend pak als resultaat, dat alle details heeft die u wenst. Om u alvast een klein beetje wegwijs te maken in alle keuzemogelijkheden, zullen wij in dit blog alvast enige kennis met u delen.

Het silhouet van een jasje

De snede (the cut) van een jasje is ook wel het silhouet van een jasje. Uit een stuk canvas snijden wij uw maten, zoals wij die genomen hebben tijdens de afspraak. Dit silhouet moet precies gesneden worden, zodat uiteindelijk het pak exact goed valt. Dit voorkomt dat er kreuken in uw pak ontstaan als gevolg van een te groot of the klein silhouet. Daarnaast wordt uw jasje natuurlijk ook gesneden in het model dat u wenst. De eerste modelkeuze die u moet maken is of u een enkel- of double-breasted  jasje wenst.


Double-breasted

Double-breasted hopsack dubbelknoops Blazer met 4*2 opgestikte zakken, opgesneden revers, gouden knopen gebaseerd op de Japanse Samurai Katana tradities. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.

Double-breasted hopsack dubbelknoops Blazer met 4*2 opgestikte zakken, opgesneden revers, gouden knopen gebaseerd op de Japanse Samurai Katana tradities. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.

De term double-breasted refereert naar een jasje met wijde overlappende voorzijden en twee paralel lopende rijen van knopen. Een van deze rijen is daadwerkelijk functioneel, terwijl de andere slechts decoratief is. Sommige double-breasted jasjes kunnen aan beide kanten (zowel links als rechts) gesloten worden, desalniettemin blijft ook in dit geval een rij knopen slechts decoratief. Voor stevigheid kan gekozen worden om ook aan de binnenkant een knoop te plaatsen. Een traditioneel double-breasted jasje heeft zes knopen.


Single Breasted

2-knoops Single-Breasted Mohair staal blauw pak met opgesneden revers en schuine zakken en los binnenwerk. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.

2-knoops Single-Breasted Mohair staal blauw pak met opgesneden revers en schuine zakken en los binnenwerk. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.

De term single-breasted refereert naar een jasje met een enkele rij knopen en een smalle overlap van de twee zijden van het jasje. Single-breasted jasjes hebben traditioneel twee of drie knopen (een of vier knopen komt ook voor, maar deze varianten zijn een stuk zeldzamer). Doordat bij een single-breasted­ jasje minder nadruk ligt op de knopen, is er meer aandacht voor de revers. U kunt u niet alleen variëren tussen opgesneden of weggesneden, maar ook in de breedte van de revers.


De knopen

             1-knoops                                                                   2-knoops                                                                   3-knoops

1-knoops: Mid grijs 1-knoops colbert jasje zomer 250 gram met rode Paisley voering. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.
2-knoops: 2-Knoops Blauw Sharkskin Kostuum met Champagne Voering met Peak Lapels En Schuine Zakken. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.
3-knoops
3 knoops blauw trouwkostuum, 260 gram, los binnenwerk met paardenhaar en linnen. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.

De meeste single-breasted jasjes hebben twee of drie knopen. Hoe deze geplaatst zijn, de knoop hoogte, bepaald voor een groot gedeelte de stijl van het jasje. Ongeacht of het een single- of double-breasted jasje is, de middelste knoop wordt normaal gesproken geplaatst ter hoogte van de taille.

Bij een double-breasted jasje is er iets meer variatie mogelijk met de knopen. De knopen kunnen in een rechte rij worden geplaatst, maar het komt ook veel voor dat de bovenste knopen (links en rechts) verder uit elkaar worden geplaatst dan de overige knopen.

Door te variëren met de knopen kunt u bepalen waar u de aandacht van de aanschouwer op wilt laten vestigen. Door de knopen iets lager te plaatsen kunt u bijvoorbeeld uw bovenlijf langer doen laten lijken.


De revers

             Weggesneden revers                                                  Opgesneden revers                                                     Shawl kraag

De revers zijn de gevouwen stukken stof aan de voorzijde van een jasje. Er zijn drie vormen van revers. Opgesneden, weggesneden en sjaal revers. De meest voorkomende variant is de weggesneden rever. Dit type rever is de standaard voor zakelijke pakken. Opgesneden revers zijn formeler en deze variant komt veel voor bij double-breasted­ pakken. Sjaal revers zijn nog formeler en deze variant komt bijna alleen voor bij smokings. 

Weggesneden revers: Marine blauw visgraat pak met weggesneden revers, schuine zakken en paarse voering. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.
Opgesneden revers: 2-knoops Single-Breasted Mohair staal blauw pak met opgesneden revers en schuine zakken. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken.
Shawl kraag: 
1-knoops modern pak blauw met shawl kraag en schuine paspel zakken. Klik hier om het complete portfolio te bekijken. 


Elk detail is uitvoerbaar wanneer u een pak laat vervaardigen door De Oost. De onderdelen van een jasje die besproken zijn in deze blog zijn slechts om u een indruk te geven van de mogelijkheden. Mocht u een specifieke wens hebben qua model of detail, dan kunt u altijd even bellen (020-6815792) om te informeren naar de mogelijkheden.

 

Elements of a bespoke suit: The cut, the single or double breasted, the buttons and the lapel.

Jean-Paul Samson

There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments and the details of a suit. Of course, during your appointment at De Oost we will make sure you make the right decisions. This will result in an exactly right fitting suit, that has all the details you have asked for. To give you an impression of all the possible options, we will share some of our knowledge in this blog.

The Cut

The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced silhouette, so a jacket does not need to be buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too loose. A proper garment is shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from tension. Shape is the essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start. The two main cuts are:

  • Double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two vertical rows of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides.
  • Single-breasted suits, in which the sides just meet at the front down a single row of buttons.

Double-Breasted

Double Breasted Unlined Hopsack Sports Jacket. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Double Breasted Unlined Hopsack Sports Jacket. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

The term double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons or snaps. In modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other functional. The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, are either decorative (non-functional) or functional, allowing the overlap to fasten reversibly, right lapel over left lapel. To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner button, called the jigger, is usually added to parallel fasten the over-lapped layers together from the inside. The original double-breasted jacket has six buttons, with three to close. This originated from the naval reefer jacket. The four-button double-breasted jacket that buttons at the lower button is often called the “Kent”, after the man who made it popular—the Duke of Kent.

Single-Breasted

Single-Breasted Steel Blue Mohair Suit. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Single-Breasted Steel Blue Mohair Suit. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

The term single-breasted refers to a coat, jacket or similar garment having one column of buttons a narrow overlap of fabric. In contrast, a double-breasted coat has a wider overlap and two parallel rows of buttons. Single-breasted suit jackets and blazers typically have two or three buttons (jackets with one or four buttons exist, but are not common), and a notch lapel. However, from the 1930’s onwards, peaked lapels, often on a single button jacket, have been variably in fashion, and this is now a classic. The width of the lapels is one of the most changeable aspects of this jacket, and narrow peak lapels on single-breasted jackets became popular during the 2000’s. Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas often rack suits are padded to reduce labour. More casual suits are characterized by less construction and tailoring, much like the sack suit is a loose American style.


Jacket Buttons        

             
             One Button                                                                  Two Buttons                                                               Three Buttons

One Button. 1-button Mid Grey Jacket. Click here to see the complete portfolio.
Two Buttons. 2-Button Blue Sharkskin Suit With Champagne Lining. Click here to see the complete portfolio.
Three buttons. 3-button Classic Wedding Suit Full Canvas French Cavalry Blue. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual. Placement and style of buttons are critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline. Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional. The second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line (the ‘keystone’ layout) or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square. A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. The layout of the buttons and the shape of the lapel are co-ordinated in order to direct the eyes of an observer. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger.


Jacket Lapels
 

             Notched Lapel                                                           Peak Lapel                                                               Shawl Collar



Jacket lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets. Usually they are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket or coat and sewing them to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck. There are three basic forms of lapels: notched, peaked and shawl. Notched lapels, the most common, are usually seen on business suits. Peaked lapels are more formal, and nearly always used on double-breasted jackets or coats. Shawl lapels are even more formal and you will hardly ever see this kind of lapels on anything other than dress wear.

Notched Lapel. Navy Herringbone suit with notched lapels, slanted pockets, purple lining and three kissing buttons. Click here to see the complete portfolio.
Peak Lapel. Mohair Suit Steel Blue 2 buttons peak lapels slanted pockets. 
Click here to see the complete portfolio.
Shawl Collar. 1-button contemporary suit jacket navy blue with shawl collar slanted jetted pockets and 3*2 waistcoat. Click here to see the complete portfolio.


In case that you choose to have a garment tailored by De Oost, everything is possible. The parts of the suit covered in this blog are mentioned to give an impression of the possibilities. In case you have a question about a specific desire, do not hesitate to give us a call (+31-(0)20-6815792).

The Navy Suit Explained

Jean-Paul Samson

At the turn of the century, if a man owned one suit, it was usually the old "trusty blue serge". Its navy jacket topped white flannels, making the first nationally accepted weekend leisure ensemble. Coming into its own as daytime wear for the man who needed a bridge between the informal and the formal, the navy two-piece was the first lounge suit to be accorded the status of a modern business uniform. Recommended for town wear with a bowler hat, yet spruce enough to wear when taking a lady to an evening concert, the dark blue dress suit could transport its owner from day to night, weekday to weekend, even showing up at semiformal occasions when black tie was not required.

The Navy Blue Suit with 2 buttons and notch lapels. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

The quintessential power suit color, navy was the color called upon for the Michael Douglas character Gordon Gekko to deliver his infamous "greed is good" speech in the movie Wall Street, not to mention all serious-minded American presidential candidates, who seldom appear on national television wrapped in anything less patriotic than the color anthem of navy suit, white shirt, and red tie. More enriching than starck black, more ceremonial than charcoal, whether in twill or plain weave, 12 ounces or 8, a navy suit shows off the average man to best advantage.

Formality of a Navy Blue Suit
It’s important to distinguish navy from other blues: a true navy blue suit is a deep, almost midnight color, not just any dark blue. The latter can make striking suits for more casual occasions, but lack the universal acceptance of navy. Navy blue, on the other hand, can go anywhere. It serves up to “black tie optional” levels of formality when worn with a white shirt and conservative tie. Worn more casually, particularly if the jacket is worn separately with lighter slacks, a navy suit becomes a piece of social wear suitable for any relaxed occasion.

Note the color midnight navy is its own shade of navy blue, and is best reserved for a unique and classic take on black tie formalwear. A patterned suit is always less formal than a plain one; thus a navy pinstripe is an option for a businessman who is going to own more than few suits and want to signal he is ready to make a deal.

Pinstripes are the most common modification in navy suits, and they are acceptable business wear when done modestly. An unbroken solid navy however will be more versatile, so if you’re going to own one suit and it will be navy blue select a solid that can be used for solemn occasions or the most formal of business dealings.

1-button contemporary navy blue suit jacket with shawl collar and slanted jetted pockets. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Navy Blue Suit Fabric and Fiber Type
Navy is a deep, rich color, that looks best in 100% virgin wool fabric. It does well in thick weaves without excess sheen. Too much smoothness to a weave can create a glossy, slick appearance that looks unnatural to the eye.

Thick wool fabrics make excellent navy suits with a matte finish that shows the color off to its advantage. A lighter wool can keep the garment comfortable in warmer weather and still lends the natural drape of wool, which keeps the fabric even and close to the wearer’s body. Exotic blends to include cashmere and mohair are desireable if one seeks extra softness and perhaps a lighter weight with similiar properties to wool. Small percentages of artificial fiber in the weave are acceptable and even desirable in small quantities for strength and stretch resistance.

More than trace however points to cost-saving rather than well-thought construction and fabrics with more than 30% synthetic fiber should be avoided if you can afford it. Too much synthetic fiber in the weave creates a flat, plastic-like sheen that makes a suit look cheap and will cut its life significantly.

Navy Blue Sharkskin Suit in thick wool. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Fitting the Navy Blue Men’s Suit
Fit matters in every suit, and most of all in a dark suit. A dark suit emphasizes the shape and presence of the wearer more than a lighter color would.

Excess fabric can make a man look slumped and saggy, while fabric that clings or pinches too tightly makes him look awkwardly oversized and straining at the seams. A fit that stays close to the body without pinching while moving is ideal for a dark suit like navy blue.

The shoulders and sides of the jacket and the “rise” of the trousers — the distance between the waistband and the crotch — are the key areas to check in suitfit. Excess fabric in any of them will look obviously saggy to viewers, and tightness will be exceedingly uncomfortable as well as unattractive.

Men buying off-the-rack should also pay attention to collar size, which tends to be unnecessarily loose on many mass-produced jackets and will most likely need to be adjusted.

Classic British London Savile Row styled Navy Herringbone suit 2-buttons notch lapel and slanted pockets. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Navy Suit Styles
The cut and details of a man’s suit depends largely on its intended purpose. A man who wears suits infrequently and needs a single, multipurpose garment for all dress occasions will want to err on the side of the universally acceptable: a single-breasted, two- or three-button jacket in plain navy is the ideal arrangement. Businessmen who wear suits daily may want a touch more variety in their wardrobes.

Peaked lapels add an unusual flair to an otherwise traditional jacket, and venting — short slits up the back of the jacket — can help it drape more neatly as the wearer moves. A double-breasted jacket or accompanying waistcoat offer more extreme variation, and give an extremely elegant and formal look to a navy suit.

Dark trousers should ideally sit high on the waist and drape over the front of man’s stomach rather than hugging his hips below it. Suspenders may help with this, providing fixed points for the pants to fall cleanly from rather than a tight belt pinching loose fabric into place. Pleated fronts offer additional room for men with a broader midsection, while slimmer gentlemen can wear a plain-fronted trouser for a more streamlined visual appeal.

Color and Pattern with a Navy Suit
Part of a charcoal gray suit‘s enduring popularity stems from the ease of matching other clothing; navy blue requires a touch more thought for a balanced look. Blue does best contrasted with “warmer” colors — its natural opposites on the color wheel — than it does with close neighbors like purple and green. Very light shades of these similar colors can still stand out against the darkness of navy green, and patterns will help moderate the effect further, but men will want to be cautious of mixing their blue suit with anything too closely related. 
 

Plain white is, of course, always an option, and the most formal one available. If a navy suit is worn unpatterned it can serve admirably well with suits and ties of most patterns. A pinstriped suit is more limited, and should only be worn with clothing in patterns of a different scale. Wide pinstripes will probably look fine with a very closely-gridded dress shirt, for example, but would look awkward over another set of broad stripes.

Classic Navy Solid Full Canvas Suit with pink shirt and burgundy tie. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

The Navy Blue Suit in Conclusion: Timeless Elegance and Everyday Function
Navy blue’s position in menswear is well-assured. It shares the highest dress standard outside of formalwear with charcoal gray. Many men prefer gray for its ease of matching, but navy offers a slightly more eye-catching touch of color and a distinctly youthful flavor that flatters older men.

A navy suit can serve as a regular piece of clothing for a frequent suit-wearer or as the single go-to option for a man who rarely needs a full suit. We recommend a navy suit, or several, for any man’s wardrobe.

 

A diverse selection of navy blue suiting fabric samples available at De Oost.

The difference between woollen and worsted garments

Jean-Paul Samson

Every tailor is interested in the quality of the fabric they sell. The quality of the raw material partly determines both the type of the fabric and the quality of the finished cloth. The cloth is made by interlacing yarns in a definite order, and it is, therefore, the type and quality of the yarns which are of importance in considering the value of the cloth from the standpoint of its future use. To put the matter in a simple form: a woven fabric is a structure of interlaced yarns, and yarns are composed of fibres. The quality of the yarn is, therefore, our next consideration. For convenience, the factors which modify the quality of yarns may be classified as follows;

  1. The nature and type of raw material.
  2. The method of spinning the raw material.
  3. The numbers of turns per inch, or twist put into the yarn.
  4. The folding or ply of the yarns.
  5. Special treatments applied to the yarns.

Let us consider the above points in more detail.

1. Type of raw material

In practice the nature of the raw material determines not only the method of preparation and spinning of the yarn, but also the future use of the yarn. Thus long wools such as Lincoln and Leicester are spun for lustres, whereas botany/merino is spun into yarns for soft goods.

Tools that are being used for the combing of fibres

Tools that are being used for the combing of fibres

2. Method of spinning

Very different results may be obtained from the same raw material according to the way the yarn is prepared and spun. For example, merino wool may be spun into a woollen or a worsted yarn, and the two yarns are quite different in appearance, handling and other properties. The worsted yarn will be smooth and compact, whereas the woollen yarn, although made of the same raw material, will be soft full and somewhat irregular.

3. The Twist

By varying the twist, or turns per inch of the yarn, the handle of the cloth may be changed. In any case the yarn must be given sufficient twist to hold the fibres together firmly. Warp yarns are given more twist than weft yarns to enable them to withstand the strain during the weaving process. Weft yarns require very little twist because there is very little tension on them during weaving. Yarns which have been given an undue amount of twist are liable to give the cloth a harsh handle. In cheviots a very soft twist is employed, so that the finished cloth has a full, soft handle, and a rough surface.

The twine (S) consists of two or more twisted fibres (Z)

The twine (S) consists of two or more twisted fibres (Z)

4. Fold of yarns

Yarns may be single, two fold, three fold or for special purposes many fold. Folded yarns are used instead of single yarns for many reasons; (a) add strength; (b) add weight; (c) give a special handle or appearance; and (d) produce fancy effects.

5. Special treatments

Yarns are sometimes subjected to special treatments in order to produce novelty effects, or to obtain a particular result. For instance, certain classes of worsted yarns are genapped, that is, they are made clean and smooth by being passed through a gas flame. Sometimes a surface heated to a white heat is used for removing the projecting fibre ends from the yarn. This is also known as singeing or gassing.

Woollen and worsted

It is common knowledge that wool is spun into two distinct types of yarns, worsted and woollen. The differences in these two yarns are mainly due to two factors; (1) the nature or class of wool used; and (2) the method of preparing.

The worsted yarn spinner uses wool fibres which have been combed and are of a certain length, that is, about 2 inches or more. Any wool which possesses the requisite length and strength is used by the spinner of worsted yarn. The woollen yarn spinner can use wool fibres which are quite short, this is, less than 2 inches, as well as longer fibres. In making tweeds or homespuns, the woollen yarn spinner uses longer wools. On the other hand, yarns composed of comparatively short fibres, from 2-4 inches, are used in the manufacture of fine botany (merino) worsteds. The length of fibre used is thus not the chief difference between the worsted and woollen yarn. The main difference between the two yarns is in the arrangement of the fibres in the yarn. It would be well for the reader to bear this last point in mind. It is the difference in the way the fibres are arranged in the yarn that makes all the difference.

How does this difference arise? Difference in preparation.

In the first place a woollen yarn is prepared differently from a worsted yarn. Wool fibres, which are required for worsteds, are first carded and then combed and re-combed until they lay parallel; also the short, unsound and broken fibres are removed by the combing machine. After repeated combings, the rope of fibres (known as a sliver) is gradually drawn thinner until it is of the required diameter; it is then tightly twisted, thus producing a smooth, regular and more or less lustrous yarn, the degree of lustre depending upon the type of wool used. On the other hand, the fibres that become woollen yarns are not combed but carded. That is, the fibres are thoroughly separated from each other, and then they are mixed freely so that they cross and recross each other in all directions. Thus, in the woolen yarn there is an entangled arrangement of fibres. They are not combed straight as in worsted spinning. The woollen yarn possesses more loose fibre than the worsted, is rougher in appearance, and on its surface has numerous projecting fibre ends. Another point to note is that the woolen yarn is not twisted so tightly as a worsted yarn.

The loose structure of the woollen yarn assists the shrinkage and felting of the fabric, as the fibres which compose the woolen yarn are enabled to become entangled with each other. In the case of smooth worsted yarns there are few loose fibre ends, and in consequence there is little opportunity to mat or felt. The amount of twist or turns per inch put into a yarn has also its influence on the contracting properties of the cloth into which it is made.

A cloth made from loosely spun yarns will contract more in the milling and dying operations than a cloth constructed of tightly twisted yarns. There is also a difference in the shrinking properties of yarns according as to whether they are dyed or undyed, although spun from the same raw material. A coloured yarn has already shrunk in the dying process, and allowance must be made when weaving the cloth so that the correct finished width may be obtained.

Click to see the Harris Tweed Collection by Holland & Sherry, an example of a cloth with relatively long fibres.

Click to see the Harris Tweed Collection by Holland & Sherry, an example of a cloth with relatively long fibres.

Click to see the Force 10 Collection of Holland & Sherry, an example of a cloth with relatively short fibres.

Click to see the Force 10 Collection of Holland & Sherry, an example of a cloth with relatively short fibres.

How yarn structure affects finish.

Let us consider another instance. Two cloths, one woollen and one worsted may be made from the same class of wool, and both may be identical in structure and put through the same finishing operations, yet in the finished state the two cloths will be quite distinct in appearance and handle. This difference is entirely due to the structure of the yarns used. Because woollen and worsted yarns are dissimilar in structure it is thus possible to produce wool fabrics strikingly different in appearance and handle.

Sources:
Huddersfield Cloth: A History of Cloth