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373 Overtoom
Amsterdam-West, NH, 1054 JN

+31 20 681 5792

De Oost Bespoke Tailoring is an Amsterdam based tailoring house with a contemporary sense of style & personal attention. We design and tailor suits, shirts, jackets, trousers, skirts and coats for ladies & gentlemen. 

 

 

Blog - Tips - Tricks De Oost Bespoke Tailoring - Maatpakken heren dames

Blog De Oost Bespoke Tailoring Bespoke Suit shirts dress style tricks inspiration for men women. Maatpakken Kostuums Kleermaker Engels Italiaans Handgemaakt Heren Dames 

Suiting and Cloth: The Weaves and Designs: Pin Stripe, Pin-Dot Stripe and Chalk Stripe

Jean-Paul Samson

Of all men's suitings, none has ever matched the glamour and popularity of the striped suit. At one time or another in the thirties, the striped suit probably graced every pair of male shoulders, from the humble to the most famous, from the unemployed to the chairman of the board.

The variety and scale of classy suiting stripes are endless. They can be in single, double, or triple tracks against plain or fancy backgrounds. Lines can be faint or bold, from subtle shadows to hair-lines to pin stripes, pencil or chalk stripes. The spacings are also ranging from the narrow to wide. Striped Patterns, in their different variations, are achieved by using white, grey or other contrasting yarns in series in a very fine worsted cloth. Anthracite, light grey, and middle to dark blue is the standard pin stripe range. How to differentiate the various sized striped patterns can be divided, we explain in the following paragraphs.


Pin Dot Stripe

The Pin Dot stripe,  a clear visible stripe, usually about 1/30 inch and not wider than 1/18 inch, made up out of small dots. 

Other Pin Dot Stripe suitings from different bunches available at De Oost. For example Dragonfly Supreme 160S HS1541  by Holland & Sherry. And Zenith Super 140's by Dolce & Taylor. Click on the picture to see the next sample.


Pin Stripe

The Pin Stripe is a very thin stripe, not wider than about 1/18 inch, usually about 1/30 inch wide, single stripe. A single warp yarn is used to create a stripe, while the distance between the stripes usually ranges from 1/10 inch up to 1 inch. Simply said, it looks like a fine stripe with the width of a pin scratch.

Navy blue with clear Pin Stripe, from the  Holland & Sherry bunch HS1165  Classic Worsted. Click here to see more samples from this bunch.

Navy blue with clear Pin Stripe, from the  Holland & Sherry bunch HS1165  Classic Worsted. Click here to see more samples from this bunch.

Other Pin Stripe suitings  from different bunches available at De Oost. For example Portofino HS1411  and  Dragon Fly Supreme 160's HS1541 by Holland & Sherry.


Chalk Stripe

The Chalk Stripe. Here, a series of threads (not just one like in the Pin Stripe) is used to create a stripe that resembles one that is drawn with tailor’s chalk. The stripe looks like a rope. The width of the stripe varies while it is always wider than the pin stripe.

Chalk Stripe samples from the Holland & Sherry bunch HS1165  Classic Worsteds. Click here to see complete bunch.

Other Chalk Stripe suiting samples from different bunches available at De Oost. For example  English Mohair HS1228  and  Triple Crown - HS143 by Holland & Sherry. But also  Zenith Super 140's by Dolce & Taylor


The Striped Suit: A part of the Business Attire

The striped jacket and matching trouser formed their own partnership around the beginning of the 20th century, when the lounge suit started to replace the black jacket and odd striped trouser for business dress. 

Many modern online style guru's suggest to wait with getting a striped suit if you do not have your collection of basic suits in your wardrobe. The great thing with the solid navy, the solid charcoal, the solid medium grey, the solid light grey is that you could wear those almost every day and change out your shirt, change out your tie, change your pocket square, perhaps even sometimes change your shoe style and you are going to find out that people are not going to notice. A striped suit stands out, so people will remember you 'as that man with the striped suit.' Those other suits do not necessarily draw attention to themselves like a striped suit does, because they are simple, classic and many people are not going to notice if one day you are wearing a navy and the other you are wearing a charcoal. But a striped suit demands to be noticed.

Pin Striped suit with slanted pockets. Click here to see the complete portfolio.

Chalk Stripe suit with peak lapels. Click here to see the complete portfolio. 


The Striped Suit: Perfect for Short and Heavy Men

Without question, correctly cut cloths can definitely aid the short, stout man in appearing taller and thinner. Vertical Striped patterns, to elongate the figure, the eye needs to be distracted from the waistline and led north to the shoulders and south below the knees.