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373 Overtoom
Amsterdam-West, NH, 1054 JN

+31 20 681 5792

De Oost Bespoke Tailoring is an Amsterdam based tailoring house with a contemporary sense of style & personal attention. We design and tailor suits, shirts, jackets, trousers, skirts and coats for ladies & gentlemen. 



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Blog De Oost Bespoke Tailoring Bespoke Suit shirts dress style tricks inspiration for men women. Maatpakken Kostuums Kleermaker Engels Italiaans Handgemaakt Heren Dames 

Suiting Fabrics and Cloth: The Weaves and Designs: Hopsack

Jean-Paul Samson

If you are looking for a suit to wear in spring or summer, think about having your garments tailored with the Hopsack fabrics available at De Oost. Technically Hopsack is not really a fabric, it is a method of weaving a fabric. Most often a lightweight (Merino) wool or a high twist tropical wool like Mohair is preferred. The “basket weave” texture, which comes in many different gages, creates a very unique feel to a tailored garment. It can be thought of as a spring/summer alternative to flannel or tweed.

Hopsack weave fabrics available at De Oost from the Holland & Sherry bunch HS 1196 - Force 10 Merino Plains. 

At De Oost one of the popular hopsack weaves we work with is one of 340grm 11oz (as seen as in the pictures above). A variation of plain weave whereby the fabric is woven with two threads together as one in the warp and weft. This weave creates a more informal, relaxed, and balanced look to the fabric whilst retaining its strength and durability. The Force 10 Merino Hopsack Collection is available in sophisticated and elegant browns and tans alongside the more traditional colours of blues and greys.

Steel blue Hopsack Mohair suit with two buttons, peak lapels and slanted pockets.  Click here to see complete portfolio.

Blue hopsack double breasted sports jacket with peak lapels, patch pockets, golden buttons and backseam based on Japanese Samurai Katana sword. See complete portfolio here.

Hopsack Pros

  •  It is easier to tailor.
  • Hopsack is very lightweight and breathable. We recommend to go for an unlined tailored garment.
  • The loose weave lets the breeze right through the fabric. It breathes very well. This makes it an ideal spring or summer suiting fabric.
  •  Due to the woven texture it is naturally wrinkle resistant. Roll a Hopsack garment up into a ball and it snaps right back. This makes clothing tailored with hopsack ideal for travelling.
  • The coarse texture creates a more casual, wearable garment. When hopsack is used in midnight blue, blue and charcoal one can create business suits that appear more alive and vibrant.

Hopsack Cons

  • Hopsack tends to not insulate heat well enough.
  • Although it breathes better, the weaving process actually adds a little bit of physical weight to the garment, as compared to a traditional tropical wool or mohair.
  • The loose weave is susceptible to getting snagged by sharp objects. This effect is worsened on larger gages.
  • Larger gages can also be more delicate.

Three hopsack samples from the Holland & Sherry bunch - Classic Worsteds Collection - HS 1165. Constructed from 100% wool, the fabrics in this collection are the perfect choice for the traditional city suit. Notorious for their tailoring capabilities, wool fabrics are durable and versatile allowing strength and body to enable a garment to hold its shape.

Hopsack is a type of weave, so a hopsack weave with another fabric type than wool is also possible. In the case of the gallery shown above you see a tailored pair of duck egg colour hopsack weave cotton trousers. Made with fabric from Holland & Sherry bunch So Cotton HS 1127. Please see the complete portfolio of the trousers here

Although not mentioned that often on our website, quite a lot  of our tailored garments are made with hopsack weave fabrics.  Some as full suits,  but also as separate trousers or waistcoat.  Hopsack makes for a very versatile and comfortable pants.

With that said, in the last pictures we present a waistcoat and pair of trousers (tailored for separate clients, but  made with the same fabric) to  highlight the versatility of hopsack fabrics. 

Hazel solid double breasted, a-symmetrical waistcoat with two breast pockets and two hip pockets, with cloth back and brass buckle.  Tailored with this fabric; Holland & Sherry  Force 10 Merino HS 1196 - Fabric 960102. See complete portfolio of this original waistcoat here.

Hazel solid hopsack trousers with fishtail. See the portfolio of the complete suit here. Tailored with this fabric; Holland & Sherry  Force 10 Merino HS 1196 - Fabric 960102. 

Hazel solid hopsack trousers with fishtail. See the portfolio of the complete suit here. Tailored with this fabric; Holland & Sherry  Force 10 Merino HS 1196 - Fabric 960102.